Evaporative
Cooling
or
Mechanical ??
A common question
asked by customers and friends is should I install a Evaporative
cooler (never refer to them as "Swamp Coolers - people have a
negative view to the word "Swamp".) or Mechanical cooling.
If you live in a coastal or tropical region, you probably never hear
this, because "evap' cooling is not very efficient when your
ambient air is full of humidity.

If your wet bulb
temperature is around 60 % and higher, then mechanical cooling is
the correct answer.
In lower wet bulb regions a properly sized evaporative cooler can be
a very cost- effective and comfortable choice.
Sizing is the key.
A good rule of thumb is to have 1 air change every 3 minutes in
northern states, 1 air change every 2 minutes in the mid section and
1 air change every 1-2 in the southern states.
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.
The formula for sizing your cooler is very simple;
just multiply the length by the width by the height of the
area to be cooled and divide by your air change factor, in
this case "2".
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Example: |
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A home
that is 30' wide , 40' long 7'high has a total of
8400 cubic feet of area to be cooled.
30x40x7 =
8400
Using the factor two (for an air change every two
minutes), divide 8400 by
two to give you the CFM required, in this case 4200
CFM.
In this case you would want to get a 4800 CFM
cooler.
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Another important factor is "Exhaust Air'. A good cooler
design is to exhaust slightly more air then your cooler is
supplying, this can be done with windows or doors being open
slightly or a sized exhaust fan inter-locked with the cooler.
Having enough air
exhausted is important so that there is negative air pressure in the
conditioned space, positive air will cut down your blowers capacity.
A big advantage to evap coolers is that the capacity can be changed
easily by adjustable pulleys to increase or de-crease air flow.
If you open your front door and the pressure slams it shut then, you
need more exhaust openings, such as a window or another door.
Mechanical cooling
cools no matter what the humidity is and usually increases your home
value more then a evap cooler, but a well designed evap install,
cost less to install and hardly noticeable on your utility bill.
A few notes for
evaporative cooler maintenance:
-
The more
frequent pads are changed the better - don't try to get 2-3
years out of pads. Twice a season is good (although seldom done,
even at my house).
-
Water treatment
- many types of cooler treatment tablets are available.
These tablets usually not only control corrosion but also
freshen the air.
-
Oil the motor
and bearings - Most evaporative cooler motors do have oil
ports. Use SAE #20 non-detergent oil.
-
Check for proper
belt tension, and amp draw
Have questions on this article. E-mail here![[bottle]](images/Float_Bottle.gif)
INADEQUATE
COOLING
| PROBABLE CAUSE |
SUGGESTED REMEDIES |
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Cooler
undersized
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Replace with
larger cooler
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Clogged or
dirty filters
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Replace with
pads
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Dry pads or
lack of water while cooler is operating
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Check water
distributing system for possible obstruction in tubing.
Check pump.
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Insufficient
air discharge openings or inadequate exhaust from area
being cooled, causing humidity building up and discomfort.
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Make sure there
is adequate provision for exhausting air from area being
cooled.
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Excessive
humidity.
(See also item above re: inadequate exhaust)
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In some areas,
there may be a few days during the summer when the
relative humidity is high, resulting in complaints about
poor cooling. The limitations of an evaporative cooler
under conditions of high wet bulb temperature should be
explained to the customer.
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Blower turning
backwards
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Reconnect motor
for correct direction
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Blower
installed backward
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Remove and
reinstall blower wheel to turn in correct direction
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Blower running
too slow
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Check motor
amps. If below name plate amperage, readjust variable
pitch motor pulley to increase blower speed.
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